DESCRIPTION Jervis Bay is a large marine dominated embayment, located approximately 180 km south of Sydney. The catchment of Jervis Bay covers approximately 410 square kilometres, while its waters cover approximately 120 square Km (2.5 times the volume of Sydney Harbour). The Bay has exceptionally clear seawater fringed by cliffs, rock platforms and is claimed to have the whitest sand in the world. The bay features more than 100 sparkling beaches covering 34.5 km of its foreshores. Jervis Bay has long been recognised as one of the finest bays in Australia and is listed in the Register of the National Estate. Unlike other bays along the coast which are drowned river valleys Jervis bay was formed when a broad downward fold (syncline) in the earth’s crust was flooded by rising seas following the last ice age.

ABORIGINAL SIGNIFICANCE Jervis Bay is important for aboriginal people, providing a home for two communities, the Jerringa and Wreck Bay communities, whose cultural and spiritual links with the area go back some thousands of years. Some hundreds of sacred sites occur on Beecroft Peninsula alone. Beecroft is said to be the birthplace of the thirteen south coast tribes, while the “Drum and Drumsticks”, located offshore of Beecroft Peninsula is extremely significant to aboriginal peoples as a religous site. The “Drum and Drumsticks” were used for naval gunnery practice up until 1986, while a naval bombardment range is still in use. Two important mythological figures are said to dwell on Beecroft - Bundoola a man like figure responsible for the propogation and control of maritime resources. “Spandula” , a mythological sea serpent responsible for the weather, rain, wind and storms was believed to live at Duck Hole, the Drum & Drumsticks and Hare Bay. Spandula is the strongest mythological legend in the area. Aboriginal prehistoric sites are found on Bowen Island, these include middens, rock shelters and a special Bora ground. Burial sites are also identified near Caves beach, where dolphins are buried with Aboriginal people. The present coastal sites date back from 7000 years ago, however many prehistoric sites in Jervis Bay would now be under water, as the original coastline was 20km farther east due to the lower sea level of the ice ages. Along the foreshores at Vincentia middens dating back 10,000 years have been found. Callala Bay’s Bid Bid Creek probably derived its name from aboriginal cultural history. The creek was part of an aboriginal dreaming path, along which travelled the infamous Bip Bip women, thought to be known also as the wild women from the highlands who stole men from their wives and families.

EARLY EUROPEAN HISTORY Captain Cook on his voyage up the east coast of Australia in 1770, noted the great expanse of a well protected bay, taking bearings on a mountain to the west which he logged as looking like a “Pigeon Loft”. Known today as “Pigeon House Mountain“ (the aboriginal name is “Dithol” meaning “Ladies Bosom”), he also named "St. Georges Head” and “Long Nose Point”. 21 years later Lt. Richard Bowen the naval agent on board the transport ship “Atlantic“ called into the bay. He then named the bay “Jervis Bay” in honour of Sir John Jervis (later Earl of St Vincent ), his former commanding officer in the Royal Navy. In 1797 an expedition led by George Bass sailed south from Botany Bay to explore the region. The expedition ended in tragedy when the boat capsized at the entrance to a large river. Several sailors lost their lives and Bass wrote in his log that the area was a “Haven for Shoals” hence Shoalhaven became the areas name. In March 1801 Deputy surveyor George Evans arrived in Jervis Bay aboard the brig Lady Nelson, having volunteered to find his way back to Sydney by land. In his first day of survey work he travelled 10 miles around the foreshore, barely surviving a snake bite injury to his leg, which swelled up to the size of his thigh. Continuing the trek around the bay he noticed the absence of fresh water. This ruled out the area as a permanent settlement. Proceeding further northward the party was tormented by large flies (march flies), tremendous hardships and starvation as they blazed their way for many days up the Shoalhaven river in search of a narrow spot to cross in bark canoes. They finally reached Appin by the end of April. In 1811 Governor Lachlan Macquarie visited Jervis Bay and realised the importance of the excellent safe anchorage stating “Port Jervis is by far the finest and safest in the whole coast between this and Bass Strait”, but any plan for a large settlement was abandoned because access by land was difficult. The Shoalhaven & Clyde rivers isolated the area.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN HISTORY Jervis Bay, came into prominence in 1909 when Canberra was selected as the best city site for the proposed Federal Capital. In 1915 the southern arm of Jervis Bay became part of the Australian Capital Territory due to a Parliament act in 1908, defined the site for the Federal Capital as having an ocean access. Jervis Bay Territory is now a separate Commonwealth Territory and is not part of the ACT. Jervis Bay provided both good anchorage and sea access. 28 square miles of the southern headland of Jervis Bay was passed over to the Australian Commonwealth Government from the NSW Government. In 1884 Parliament voted 804,000 pounds for a proposed railway line from Canberra to Jervis Bay. The land along the proposed route was surveyed and reserved from sale in readiness for construction, however the plan never eventuated. This area now houses the Royal Australian Naval College (H.M.AS Creswell), Jervis Bay Air Base Range along with the Botanic Gardens (an annex to the Botanic Gardens of Canberra) are all nestled around the picturesque Lake McKenzie and Lake Windermere. In 1971 the government set aside 62% of the peninsular area to establish the Jervis Bay Nature Reserve (4,318 Ha).

H.M.A.S. Creswell In 1915 the Navy opened its Officer Training College on the sothern shores of the Bay. The college was named after Rear Admiral Sir William Creswell who initiated college training for prospective naval officers. The facility operated until 1930 when it was transferred to Flinders in Victoria. Creswell proved an ideal location as a tourist facility with its buildings and wharves and safe anchorage. During World War Two it again became part of the Navy, and a large aircraft landing field was built nearby. After the war the buildings were used as a convalescent hospital and rehabilitation centre for injured servicemen returning from the war. In 1958 the Navy once again returned to Creswell to re establish it as an educational and training facility, which remains its present day use. The buildings have been listed on the National Estate Register.

Wreck Bay Aboriginal Community Wreck Bay exhibits evidence of aboriginal occupation predating European settlement of Australia. Midden and other sites point to usage going back over thousands of years. A permanent Aboriginal settlement at Wreck Bay dates back to 1890 when fishermen camped at Mary Bay and Summercloud Bay to become the first permanent aboriginal occupation in the area. In 1915 when the area became Commonwealth Territory there were at least five families settled in the area. The settlement was granted land rights to approximately 403 hectares in 1986.

Jervis Bay Nature Reserve

In January 1971 the Jervis Bay Nature Reserve was declared to protect the area. Following years of campaigning by conservation groups such as the Jervis Bay Protection Committee, the reserve and additional lands and waters of the Bay were declared Jervis Bay National Park in 1992. Subsequently ownership of the park was handed back to the Wreck Bay community, who have entered into a leaseback arrangement with the Commonwealth Government and the area is now jointly managed as a conservation reserve. The park is now known as the “Booderee National Park”.

 

Greenpatch Greenpatch, Iluka and Bristol Point have been developed as camping and picnic areas, containing well organised camping sites and facilities. These areas have become some of the most popular recreational areas in Australia.

Murray’s Beach In the early 1970’s a development proposal by the the Australian Atomic Energy Commission proposed building a Nuclear reactor, at Murrays Beach at the very end of the Bherwerre Peninsula. Road and excavation works, carried out at a cost of $3 Million were undertaken. Site testing on land and in the water of the Bay was conducted in the 1960’s and to this day large circular patterns of barren sand in the sea grass beds can be seen as a result of seismic explosions. These sea grasses have not as yet regenerated 30 years later. The proposed reactor plan was scrapped when the Whitlam Government came to power in 1972. Shamefully the area was never rehabilitated and remains as a large carpark for visitors and boaters using Murray’s boat ramp.

Jervis Bay Port Study The1972 - “Jervis Bay Port Study” was released with plans including a steelworks, petrochemical and chemical industry, aluminium smelting, copper refining, quarrying and woodchip industries. The project was abandoned as a result of world recession and a severe downturn in the steel industry.

Bowen Island

Named after Lt. Richard Bowen of the Royal Navy. In 1928 a10 year lease was granted for the development of a pleasure resort. In 1942 the island was taken over for defence purposes and several buildings and a gun emplacement for twin 6 inch naval guns from the H.M.A.S. Sydney were constructed. Approximately 120 personnel , mostly women, were billeted on the island for the duration of the war. After the war private leases were granted on the island, however in 1989 the Island reverted to Commonwealth control, and the area is now managed as part of the Booderee National Park. There is colony of approximately 5000 fairy penguins on the island. These are the smallest penguins in the world at 30 centimetres tall and weighing about 1 kilo. With a lifespan of 7 years, a steely blue colour with a white belly giving great camouflage from predators both above and below the water. The penguins can often be seen feeding in the clear waters of the bay, returning nightly to their burrows on Bowen Island to regurgitate fish for their young chicks.

Stoney Creek Lighthouse The original lighthouse “Stoney Creek Lighthouse” on Cape St. George which was built in 1860 with a budget of 5000 pounds. The lighthouse was designed in a style similar to Francis Greenaway’s famous South Head Lighthouse. Fine stone masonry of that era can be seen in the walls. It was a three storey circular tower with an inside diameter of 10 feet. The walls were of dressed sandstone 3ft thick at the base tapering to 2ft at the top. The lighthouse proved to be a navigational hazard luring 14 ships to their doom on the rocky coastline and beaches of Wreck Bay. It ceased operation after 1899, however it remained a daylight navigational hazard until it was largely destroyed by a naval bombardment. Now aptly named “The Ruined Lighthouse” it has become a great tourist attraction. Regeneration of the site has now begun with construction of viewing platforms and preservation of the magnificent sandstone buildings, which are now classified by the National Trust of Australia.

Pt Perpendicular This lighthouse was built in 1899 using new methods of precast concrete blocks. The walls are 3.5ft at the base tapering to 2.5ft at the top, with an internal diameter of 12ft. The light stands 204ft above the high water mark and is visible to 20 nautical miles to sea. The lighthouse is of great historic and symbolic importance to the area providing a safe navigation beacon. Initially oil burning it was converted to electricity in 1944 and still functioned as a manned lighthouse until 1993 when it was decommissioned and replaced by an unmanned solar powered tower. The lighthouse and other buildings are listed on the Register of the National Estate. A road was constructed about 5 miles from the light house to an inlet of the Bay (Boat Harbour). An L-shaped jetty 200ft long and 12ft wide was constructed along with a storage shed and water tank. The jetty is protected from all but North & Nor West wind and provided access for supplies instead of the long road haul from Nowra. The remains of the jetty can still be seen at Bindijine. Presently this cove and adjacent Honeymoon Bay are popular holiday and weekend destinations.

 

Rocky Headlands

The imposing entrance to Jervis Bay is dominated by the massive cliffs of Pt. Perpendicular in the north and Governor Head to the south. The sheer cliffs not only tower above the sea to a maximum of 135 metres north of Steamers beach (the highest in N.S.W.), but also plunge to a depth of up to 40 metres straight down with no intervening rock platform. As a landscape these walls are geologically unique with a complex combination of structural warping and faulting of Permian rock strata, followed by post glacial flooding by the ocean. Caves, steep sided gorges, sea stacks, arches and rocky headlands fringed by wave cut platforms complete an environment which provides a fantastic day walk for those interested in dramatic scenery or geology. The rocky shores of Bowen Island, Pt Perpendicular and Bherewerre shorelines extend to deep submerged reefs of 25 - 40 meters depth, they are festooned with sea life of bewildering variety and beauty. With the might of the sea, the rugged coastline the area is classed as being one of the great coasts of Australia. The richness of the Bay’s plants, animal life and crystal clear waters makes it a snorkellers and photographers delight. Divers describe it as like descending into a wonderful lifesize aquarium. The underwater habitat includes weed covered and bare shallow rocky reefs, sand zones, seagrass meadows, sand deltas, cliff platforms, blocks, boulders, many swim throughs and caves.

 

 

Rock Platforms Two rock platforms at Tapalla Pt near Huskisson form an important, geological, scientific and educational site as they contain Glendonites (polycrystaline aggregates) and fossils. Nearby at Moona Moona creek entrance an interesting rock platform pattern can be seen. Tessellated pavement is well represented here (mysterious parallel lining running north-south and east-west). Other extensive rock platforms exist at Plantation Pt. These contain a great range of habitats and life diversity resulting from close proximity to sand and surf beaches, especially the platforms that have a northerly aspect with calmer waters. Jervis Bay wetlands are comparatively small in relation to the size of the Bay, however these wetlands are important as they are the breeding grounds for fish and are essential to maintain stocks in the bay. Wetlands also provide habitats for waterbirds. crustaceans, molluscs and a nursery for other marine species.

Seagrasses Seagrasses grow in the Bay at deeper depths than elsewhere on the east coast. The seagrass beds cover an area of 906 hectares and contain examples of all seagrass species found in N.S.W. The largest area of these in Australia is located in the Bay. Seagrasses help stabilise the seabed and are an important part of fish nurseries.

Mangroves Two species may be present, the taller Grey mangrove - (Avicennia marina) and the shorter River Mangrove(Aegiceras corniculatum). River Mangrove is usually on the landward side of Grey Mangrove and often extends further up estuaries where the water is less salty.The Bay contains two species of mangroves. Both cover 12.5 hectares of the bay area, predominantly at Moona Moona Creek Currambene Creek, also at Cabbage Tree creek, Wowly Gully, Callala Creek and Cararma Inlet on the north eastern corner of the Bay.

Heath

The heathlands of Jervis Bay are among some of the richest plant communities in the world. Over 400 species have been recorded at Jervis Bay alone, making this an area of international significance, and providing some of the last relatively undisturbed stands of coastal heath on the east coast. Development pressures on coastal land have ensured that these areas would always be at risk. Heath vegetation is characterised by a variety of low but hardy plants, which appear to thrive in the harsh coastal conditions, with harsh winds, poor soils, and exposure to sea spray.

UNDERWATER JERVIS BAY Jervis Bays marine habitat supports an extremely rich marine fauna including some 200 species of fish, invertebrate animals such as sponges, hydroids, bryozoan, masses of sessile animals, molluscs, crustaceans, worms, anemones nudibranchs. Weedy sea dragons abound as well as seahorses. Stingrays reside and have been recorded up to 2 meters wide. A resident dolphin population of approximately 60 bottlenose dolphins live and breed in the Bay. Nomadic common dolphins also visit the Bay on a regular basis in large pods of over 100. Dolphin Watch Cruises | Baywatch Cruises Seals can also be seen frolicking on the surface, cooling themselves by holding their flippers above water. These individuals have ventured from their colony located near Steamers beach. Whales visit the Bay, as they migrate North in Autumn and South in Spring, often bringing their new born calves in for a rest. Records show that over 200 bird species inhabit around the area including many endangered species such as the Ground Parrot and the Eastern Bristle Bird. There are about 2000 Eastern Bristle Birds in Australia, about 600 of them in the Jervis Bay area. Peregrine falcons are found on the bays high cliff faces, where they swoop on their prey at high speed. White Breasted Sea eagles can be seen patrolling the shoreline in search of food. Backyard Birdwatch

38 different species of snakes and reptiles are found at Jervis Bay, including the Broad headed snake, the Jervis Bay Tree frog, the new Holland mouse and the Diamond python.

 

Shipwrecks Early navigators were warned of the treacherous waters of the South coast, particularly in the vicinity of Wreck Bay. During East /South East winds dangerous situations could arise with the strong shore currents that would sweep vessels off course for miles westward into the Northern end of Wreck Bay, leaving little room for manoeuvring. This pocket of Wreck Bay is called Summercloud Bay. One of the earliest wrecks was a convict transporter named the Hive. This ship went aground on the 10th December 1835 and was totally wrecked. At 485 tonnes, it was the Hive’s second trip to Australia, Commanded by Captain Nutter. Departing from England on a12 month voyage, the ship saw no land until reaching the shores of Jervis Bay. The ships cargo comprised provisions and 10,000 pounds in gold coinage for the Sydney colony. At 10P.M. breakers were seen on the bow, but it was too late to save the ship. A line was secured to the shore enabling the crew and convicts to land on the beach, however two lives we lost. Next day anchors were deployed from the Hive in an unsuccessful attempt to pull the beached ship to deeper water. The precious cargo and stores were all salvaged, and transported to the schooner Blackbird that journeyed from Sydney in the following weeks. 23 trips were made in small boats from the shore to load the Blackbird. The evening before sailing a violent gale pushed the Blackbird ashore wrecking it next to the wrecked Hive. Remnants of the Hive have been located 3 metres beneath the sand at Bherewere beach in 1995.

Wreck Bay Shipwrecks 1835 Hive 1835 Blackbird 1836 Medina 1870 Walter Hood 1874 Rose of Australia 1874 Mary 1886 Corangamite 1908 Hilda 1912 Tilba Tilba 1915 Advance 1922 Mokau

Jervis Bay Ship Area Wrecks 1850 Juniper St George’s Head 1855 Martha Elizabeth South Head 1867 Aelous Hole in the Wall 1876 Chimborazo Point Perpendicular 1882 Ester Maria Beecroft Head 1883 Agnes off Jervis Bay 1891 Prince Alfred off Jervis Bay 1909 Eden Point Perpendicular 1915 Wandera Drum and Drumsticks 1928 Merimbula Beecroft Head 1964 Voyager off Jervis Bay